Most jewelry is crafted from individual components. The pieces are often created on the jeweler's bench and adjoined with molten precious metals. With a few components such as earring-posts, chains and hinges (often known as "findings"), these basic components are used to make everything from solitaire and gem-set rings, to earrings, necklaces, pendants and more complex pieces. Here we present the various setting styles used to set jewels in precious metals along with brief description of how each setting looks as well as what makes each setting special.
Prong setting
* Is also known as claw setting. It has small claws with a vice-like grip that are bent over the girdle of the gem to ensure its secured position.
* Typical claw setting has 4 claws. Claw settings with 6 claws are also called the "Tiffany" setting because it was originally developed by the founder of Tiffany & Co. in 1886.
* The claws must always be equal.
* The visible claw ends are often rounds, ovals, points, V-shapes (usually called "Chevron"), flat and sometimes formed into ornamental shapes (usually called "Enhanced Prongs").
* As all gemstones are suitable for prong setting, it is the most frequently used method of setting gems into jewelry. Prong settings are frequently seen because they are easier to adjust to the size of an individual gemstone.
* Pront setting brilliantly shows off the gemstone, since the gemstone is positioned higher and is more easily seen.
* Prong setting is especially popular for solitaire engagement rings and in bridal rings. When combined with Pave settings, Prong settings are considered to be the most suitable for women as this setting is more feminine, especially for designs with smaller shoulders and smaller gemstones.
* The more claws, the more secure and safe your gemstones will be !
Pave setting
* Pronounced Pa Vay, Pave settings are claw-like settings but are so small that they are barely visible. The claws are triangular-like and are usually handmade.
* The settings are either created by use of tiny prongs that hold the jewels on both sides, or are crafted by scooping beads of precious metal out to hold the gems in place.
* Pave setting produce a carpet of brilliance across the entire surface of a piece of jewelry. The surface is encrusted, or quite literally "paved" in diamonds and gems, and the body of the jewelry is brought vibrantly to life.
* Pave setting displays an illusionary bigger look using multiple gemstones.
* Pave setting is usually combined with other gemstone settings to add more effect and beauty.
* Pave settings are best for diamonds. Pave setting is often used in conjunction with white gold, which creates an effect of the whole piece of jewelry being crafted from diamonds.
* Pave setting is best for round, oval, princess, emerald, square and baguette cuts.
Bezel setting
A "bezel" setting is a crafted diskette of metal that holds the gemstone by its girdle to the ring, securely encircling the entire circumference of the gem. It is labor intensive and must be crafted to precisely circumnavigate the outline of the gem.
* Variations of the "bezel" setting are the "flush" or gypsy" settings. The surface of the ring has a window cut into it that exactly fits the size of the gem. Secured from underneath, the crown of the gem rises from the ring beatifully catching rays of light.
* A bezel setting needs to be balanced and straight, from angle-to-angle. Gemstones with sides/angles are considered difficult while oval and rounds are easier.
* Bezels can have straight, scalloped edges and can be molded into a gemstone of any shape.
* A bezel setting protects the edges, the girdle and the pavilion of the gemstones.
* Bezel setting adds height, dimension and a great modern look.
* Bezel setting is best suited to people with active lifestyles. Bezel settings are especially considered the best for men because these setting show masculinity, especially when the designs have BIG shoulders and BIG gemstones.
* Bezel setting is best for earrings, necklaces, bracelets and rings.
Channel setting
* A setting technique whereby gemstones are held side-by-side by their girdles between two long tracks of precious metal. When used with square, princess and rectangular shaped jewels, the effect is breathtaking as no metal apears between the jewels -- they appear to float in a tightly bejeweled chain within the jewelry.
* The gemstones in channel setting are set closely together, so that no gold between the gem is necessary. This produces the maximum amount of light and brightness from the gemstones and allows the jewelry to keep looking bright for a long time.
* In channel setting it is very important precisely cut the gemstones pavilion, if not the gemstones will crack or be lost !
* Channel setting is often used in commercial jewelry designs. Often seen in eternity bands and tennis bracelets, gemstones are held side-by-side by their girdles between two long tracks of precious metal.
* Channel setting is best for diamonds and for round, oval, princess, emerald, square and baguette cuts.
* Channel setting is best for rings and bracelets.
Bar setting
* These are short bars that run like a railway track across a ring. Gemstones are individually set between these bars leaving the sides of the gemstones exposed to light.
* An increasingly popular setting style, this technique maximizes the amount of light entering the gemstones creating superior brilliance and sparkle.
* Bar setting is a version of the channel setting and can often combine a contemporary and classic loo in one design.
* Bar setting is best for diamond rings and for round, oval, princess, emerald, square and baguette cuts.
Invisible setting
invisible-set gemstones are placed very closely together, with the mdetal concealed underneath the stones, giving them the appearance of a continuous, uninterrupted surface. Since the metal of the setting is not seen, this type of setting is an excellent way to showcase the brilliance or color of the gemstones themselves. It also allows an increased amount of light to enter the stone (and thus give off more brilliance or color), since there are no prongs or bezels impeding the light's entry.
Cluster setting
In a cluster setting, several stones are mounted together in a group, for a cluster effect. It is frequently seen with several small stones surrounding a central, larger stone.
Tension setting
This setting uses pressure to hold a stone between two open ends of the metal mounting, making the stone appear as if it's floating.
About the Author :
Alice Sy graduated with Master of Philosophy (M.Phil) from the University of Hong Kong and served as Director of World Champ International Enterprises since 1993.
For more details about the products and services of World Champ International Enterprises, please visit www.1jewelrywatch.com |
